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At sunset, the mood shifted. The heat of the day melted into the cool of a desert evening. The family gathered on the rooftop terrace . A cassette player—yes, a cassette player, because Dadi refused to learn streaming—played a scratchy recording of MS Subbulakshmi singing a Carnatic kriti.

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India is shifting the narrative from yoga as a "fitness class" to yoga as Ashtanga (eight-limbed path). At sunset, the mood shifted